Brazil-Salvador

Sensational Salvador
The Heartbeat of Brazil

By Tom Wuckovich

The sound is unmistakably the pulsating beat of a drum. But listen carefully, and watch closely, and you will hear and see the heartbeat of Brazil.
The rhythm seeps into the soul where it collects before it bursts forth like some cataclysmic event, manifesting itself into gyrating, sweating bodies and haunting melodies that will captivate and mesmerize you. This is Salvador. This is the essence of Brazil.
The city of Salvador in the state of Bahia on the northeast coast of Brazil was born in 1549, the offspring of Portuguese colonizers, native Indians and ultimately blacks, ferried there from Africa as part of the burgeoning slave trade between the Old and New World. The Bay Todos os Santos offered a favorable anchorage for ships and the port would play a strategic role in the defense and colonization of Brazil. In the same year of its birth, it became the first capital of Brazil and remained so until Rio was chosen as the seat of the government.
Though they came as slaves, the Africans’ strength of character and unyielding spirit eventually prevailed, and they became an integral part of the fabric of Bahia and the whole of Brazil. The cultural influences of the former slaves are evident today in the religion, arts, food and societal mores of the Brazilian population.
Religious practices are mainly expressed in candomblé (Brazilian voodoo), an odd mix of African tribal rites and centuries old Catholicism. These customs are the roots for such noted celebrations as Carnival, New Year’s Eve festivities and June parties. Seldom is the revelry more fervent than in Salvador. Ceremonies are usually open to the public and occur mostly in the period between New Year’s Eve and Carnival in February.
The events are not quietly observed. Indeed, it’s in the streets that Salvadorians hold their parties. Music thunders from makeshift stages, miniscule plazas, skinny balconies or narrow alleyways, persuading revelers to lose their inhibitions and seize the moment.
On some occasions, followers of candomblé are welcomed by local churches such as Nossa Senhoara do Bonfim, whose steps are ceremonially cleaned by the women of Bahia while they are dressed in typical historical costumes. The believers later gather in a selected area where they perform songs and dances that invoke the forces of nature. The festivities draw followers and non-believers alike, summoned in part by the electric atmosphere.
The church is famous for the colorful ribbons that are sold outside on the grounds. Each colored ribbon represents some trait, such as love or health. Legend dictates that the ribbons should be taken inside the church to be blessed the believer makes three wishes and ties them to his or her wrist. When the ribbon falls off naturally, the wish is said to be granted.
Another symbol of African culture in Salvador is capoeira, whose origin can be traced to Angola. Capoeira was employed by slaves as a weapon of attack—and defense against attack. Today it is a very popular form of entertainment that features a combination of martial arts and dance.
Capoeira troop members swing from side to side and execute incredible acrobatic maneuvers primarily using their legs. All the while, other members surround them in a circle singing and chanting accompanied by ancient percussion instruments like berimbau, agogos and atabaques. A favorite venue to see this demonstration is at Coliseu Restaurant in the famed Pelourinho historical district of Salvador. The restaurant could be considered the equivalent of a dinner theater in other parts of the world. A buffet meal is available before the start of the show, which usually lasts approximately 45 minutes. A table near the stage guarantees some tense moments as performers fly around the small platform demonstrating their high-energy gymnastics.
While Salvador has its cosmopolitan side, The Pelourinho is a conclave of old colonial mansions formerly owned by sugar barons, beautiful baroque churches and majestic public buildings that manifest the cultural riches of this city. In recent times, the colonial mansions were restored and converted into bars, restaurants and concert facilities. Churches, temples and convents have been recovering their former splendor and some have found different uses.
A unique hotel in the center of the Pelourinho area is the Convento do Carmo hotel, a four-star property that once served the needs of the Carmel Order. The hotel was established as a convent in 1592 and continued until 1974 when the cloister officially became a hotel. The rooms, where pedestals for prayer at shuttered windows are still evident, have many modern conveniences, including air conditioning. There are 79 apartments and suites, along with a restaurant and swimming pool.
Just outside its doors are the cobblestone streets of the Pelourinho where much of the district activities take place. It is said that when Bahians are not actually participating in a festival, they are rehearsing for one.
Pelourinho also is considered by UNESCO to be the most important area for colonial architecture in the Americas. One of the most cherished architectural gems here is the Church and Convent of Saint Francis of Assisi with its rich, gold-plated altars. Construction began in 1713 and continued until 1723, but the decoration and painting of the interior wasn’t completed until 1750.
Other sights that deserve attention on a historical jaunt through the city include the Cidade Alta (High City), the city museum, the Elevador Lacerda which transports visitors from the Lower City to the High City, the house of writer Jorge Amado and the busy market. Within the district are charming street stands and restaurants that serve delicious regional delicacies while still catering to the tastes of international visitors.
Salvador also is noted for its beaches and coastline and weekends will find most of the populace enjoying the sun and surf. As with many Latin American beaches, vendors ply their trade here, offering everything from fresh seafood to ornamental jewelry. The Farol da Barra, a small island at the tip of Salvador is an inviting area to watch the many glorious sunsets while sipping a tropical drink or having dinner. The island sports one of only three lighthouses still operating along the Bahia coast.
Typical sights here along the beaches on the Atlantic side and the Bay of Todos os Santos also include the Brazilian bikini, that little item of clothing that allows for a virtual all-over tan. Bahians aren’t obsessive about nudity or sensuality and treat them rather cavalierly.
It’s the same approach they take toward their celebrations—which is why in Salvador and all of Brazil beats the heart of a free-spirited country.