Costa Rica…Naturally

Costa Rica…Naturally

By Tom Wuckovich

There seemed no end to it. This vast green oasis-one of many rainforests in Costa Rica—was thick and lush and drowned the mountains in an emerald tapestry before it descended to kiss the rolling surf of the Pacific Coast.
It was as intimidating as it was alluring. What secrets it held, what mysteries it hid, what dangers it offered darted through my mind as I prepared to venture into its green maw. I am merely one of thousands of “green conscious” travelers who come to this country annually, anxious to immerse themselves into unquestionably one of the most environmentally conscious regions in the world.
In 1977, Costa Rica made an unprecedented move by declaring 25 percent of its land as a conservation area. Today, 26 percent of Costa Rica’s land is made up of 28 national parks, plus wildlife refuges and private reserves. Of these, three are turtle conservation areas for leatherback and green sea turtles, (Ostional, Las Baulas, Tortuguero); two are marine conservation areas (Las Baulas, Ballena) and one is ground zero for the earth´s shark population, Cocos Island.
I was going into the bosom of this rainforest on horseback, bent on catching a glimpse of the vast indigenous inhabitants of Hacienda Baru, a biologically diverse private reserve of nearly 1,000 acres near Playa Dominical, set aside to protect the myriad birds, mammals, trees and insects. Indeed, the country is home to approximately 500,000 species, half of which can be found in the Osa Peninsula on the Pacific coastline. Tortuguero, with more than 300 species of birds, monkeys, frogs, tapirs, caimans and many others, is considered the most important area in the Northern Caribbean basin.
This would be no easy trek. The horses, though seemingly surefooted, would be tested on this day, due to the steady drizzle that turned the crude trail into a quagmire of mud and slippery stones. It was, at times, treacherous, but never more so than the final descent from the trail down along a footpath barely wide enough for both man and beast, and beset with cavities of grasping muck and slick, table-sized volcanic rock.
The wind, heavy with the hot breath of summer, still felt cool on my wet skin. In quick succession, the two guides accompanying me pointed out one three-toed sloth lounging in a tree, several toucans, a scarlet macaw and one poison dart frog. I fumbled under my poncho for my camera to get an image of these creatures in this primitive habitat. It would be one of many opportunities to gaze at nature’s marvelous creations along this coastline.
Even though all of Costa Rica is an extreme ecological paradise for thousands of flora and fauna, nothing generates more raves than the Osa Peninsula. It is often referred to as the “Lungs of the Earth” for its dense forestry. The main attraction is Corcovado National Park, the single-largest area of a lowland tropical rainforest in Central America and one of the tallest rainforests in the world. It is considered the crown jewel among the country’s national parks. But just up the coast north of Corcovado is Manuel Antonio National Park. This 1,700 acre oasis is popular with locals and visitors because of its easy access and the open forest trails that make it effortless to spot wildlife. The bone white sand beaches also are places to laze away the afternoon hours in virtual solitude.
Costa Rica has some of the most beautiful natural beaches anywhere on earth, and many of them have received the Blue Ecologic Flag Award, which identifies beaches where the local community works and makes a total effort to maintain them in the best conditions for the enjoyment of the tourists. The "Blue Flag" program offers strong incentives to hotels, local tourism boards, and coastal communities, to work together to protect these valued entities. And after my descent in the Hacienda Baru, I could understand completely why Costa Rica is so committed to protecting and preserving its natural resources. The trek was worth the effort.
The guides found a small clearing and we stopped and tethered our horses some 200 feet from the Nauyaca Waterfalls, a torrent of cascading water from the River Baru, which winds its way down the mountains and through the heart of the forest before emptying into the sea. The water—thousands of gallons a minute—gushed over the precipice and crashed onto the immense slate-colored boulders below, just yards from where I stood. This was nature's stage, and it was a spectacle like few others. The obstacles we overcame to get here were all but forgotten in the giddiness of the moment—highlighted by the sight of the raging waters.
It was an auspicious beginning to my first trip to Costa Rica's burgeoning west coast, and it only whetted my appetite to explore more regions of this incredible country. Tortuguero and the Caribbean Coast beckoned, and I made a silent promise to myself that a visit there was not too long in the offing. I may not have been “green” when I arrived here, but by the time I left, I was dedicated to the cause. It wasn’t just a vacation anymore, but a life experience.
Costa Rica has not seen the last of me.

COSTA RICA FAST FACTS

• Costa Rica contains about 500,000 species, half of which can be found in the Osa Peninsula
• Costa Rica has a country goal to be carbon neutral by 2021.
• The world’s first carbon neutral airline, Nature Air, is based in Costa Rica.
• There are over 150 species of orchids, 850 species of birds, 110 species of bats and 100 species of frogs found in Costa Rica.